Chain Stitching Unraveled

For students of the denim game, it’s all about authenticity. Every detail got to be just right, and even the machinery used to perform certain details got to be right. Let’s talk a bit about the stitching at the bottom hem and the coveted Union Special 43200G. For advocates of all things pure and authentic, the hem at the leg opening should be a chain stitch. With a chain stitch you get nice break in possibilities because of the opposite pull of the denim, which creates a roping effect when you wash your jeans and the fabrics is exposed to some shrinkage.

In the 60′s Japanese denim manufacturers started buying every Union Special 43200G on the North American market. So, when Union Special stopped making the machine in 1989, the market was pretty much out of the old school machinery that would create that old look. Denim enthusiasts all across the US started looking to for a 43200G to get their hands on, but the Japanese had done a brilliant job buying almost every machine left.

But, no matter how true or authentic the chain stitch might be, it does have some cons. It’s constructed in a way that the sewing machine loops a single length of thread back on itself. If a thread comes loose however, the whole chain could unravel. Most jeans sold today don’t have chain-stitched hems, but of course our jeans all have chain stitches. In the 80’s, the denim industry started using lock stitching instead of chain stitching. Chain Stitching was faster to produce, but the lock, or single stitch is both sturdier and cheaper to produce.

Fit Guide

From tight to loose. Here are the Nudie Jeans fits. Spin them around and compare look and measurements. Visit Fit Guide

Nudie Fit Guide
Nudie Production Guide

Production Guide

We take a great interest in where and how the Nudie Jeans collection is produced. See for yourself in the Production Guide

Latest news

  • Jun 23: It’s Summer Sale Time! All Spring 2014 garments need to go, and are sold at 30% off at the Nudie Jeans Online Shop nj.io/Ftmj
  • Jun 11: The aged, patinated leather gives this bag a beautiful, well-worn look. Get Geronimosson Aged Trunk from the Nudie Jeans Online Shop nj.io/UZXG
  • Jun 06: Melting Butter paid us a visit at the Nudie Jeans Repair Shop in Soho. nj.io/Dhps
  • May 14: Yeah! Our Repair Shop concept won Sustainable Store of the Year award. nj.io/rio7
  • Apr 04: Black Coated denim is back - Thin Finn Back 2 Black. nj.io/PzGp
  • Mar 20: Guardian Sustainable Business wrote a nice piece on wear, tear & repair. nj.io/2pvM
  • Mar 04: Did you get our latest newsletter about denim jackets, khakis & tees? nj.io/S0R0
  • Feb 20: Our store in Göteborg has been renovated - it's a beauty. Say hi to Nudie Jeans Repair Shop Göteborg. nj.io/aGRj
  • More...

Your jeans go
where you go.
They live your lifestyle.
They get abrasions
and scars.
And they bleed.
Just like you.


Repairs Shops